Bâtonnage

‘’‘Bâtonnage’’’ (/ba.tɔ.naʒ/) is a winemaking technique originating from the French word bâtonner, meaning “to stir with a stick”. It refers specifically to the periodic stirring of dead yeast cells, or lees, back into suspension during the ageing of wine, typically in barrel. This practice is most commonly associated with white wines aged sur lie (on the lees), particularly in regions where richness, texture, and complexity are desired.

Usage in wine

In practice, bâtonnage involves using a metal rod or wooden baton to stir the lees at the bottom of a barrel or tank. By reincorporating these fine sediments into the wine, winemakers can enhance mouthfeel, build weight, and develop creamy, nutty, or toasty flavours. The technique also helps protect the wine from oxidation by releasing glutathione and other reducing compounds found in yeast cells.

Bâtonnage is usually performed at regular intervals during the early stages of maturation, often weekly or biweekly, and is reduced or halted entirely once the desired texture is achieved. It is typically employed in conjunction with ageing on lees and is a key stylistic decision that influences a wine’s final profile.

Notable examples

Bâtonnage is most famously associated with high-quality white Burgundy, especially Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, where it contributes to the richness and depth of Chardonnay wines. It is also used in selected Loire Valley whites, such as Muscadet Sur Lie, and by producers worldwide seeking to add complexity to their barrel-aged whites. Though less common, some red wine producers also experiment with bâtonnage to enhance structure and softness.

References

Robinson, J., Jancis Robinson’s Wine Course, 2003