Aszú
Aszú is a traditional Hungarian term referring both to botrytised grapes affected by noble rot (Botrytis cinerea) and to the historic sweet wine style produced from them, most famously in the Tokaj region. Tokaji Aszú is among the world’s most renowned sweet wines, defined by its concentration, high acidity and long ageing potential.[1]
Definition and terminology
The term aszú originates from Hungarian and refers to grapes that have shrivelled due to noble rot. These berries are individually harvested and processed separately from healthy grapes. In a broader sense, Tokaji Aszú denotes the finished wine made by macerating these botrytised berries in a base wine or must.[2]
Historically, the level of sweetness in Tokaji Aszú was indicated by the number of puttonyos, a traditional unit referring to baskets of aszú berries added to a standard barrel of base wine. Although modern regulations now define sweetness by residual sugar levels, the puttonyos system remains in use as a qualitative reference.[3]
Production method
Production of Tokaji Aszú involves several distinct stages:
- Selective hand-harvesting of botrytised berries (aszú grapes)
- Crushing these berries into a paste (aszú dough)
- Maceration of the paste with fermenting must or finished base wine
- Pressing and subsequent fermentation
- Extended maturation, traditionally in oak barrels within underground cellars
The presence of Botrytis cinerea concentrates sugars, acids and flavour compounds, contributing to the wine’s complexity and longevity.[4]
Modern PDO regulations for Tokaj define minimum sugar levels, permitted grape varieties (including Furmint, Hárslevelű and others), and ageing requirements that ensure stylistic consistency across producers.[5]
Wine style and sensory profile
Tokaji Aszú wines are characterised by:
- High residual sugar balanced by pronounced acidity
- Aromas of apricot, orange peel, honey and saffron
- Development of caramel, dried fruit and nutty notes with age
- A viscous texture combined with freshness and structural precision
The balance between sweetness and acidity is a defining feature, preventing the wines from becoming cloying despite high sugar levels.[6]
Historical significance
Tokaji Aszú has a long documented history, often cited as one of the earliest intentionally produced botrytised wines. Its reputation spread across European royal courts from the 17th century onwards, contributing to its designation as “the wine of kings and the king of wines.”[7]
The codification of its production methods and geographical boundaries represents one of the earliest examples of controlled appellation systems in Europe.
Legal framework
Tokaji Aszú is protected under the European Union’s system of geographical indications as part of the Tokaj PDO. Regulations govern grape varieties, production techniques, minimum sugar levels and ageing requirements.
The protection extends across both Hungary and Slovakia, where the designation Tokaj/Tokajské víno is legally recognised under EU law.[8]
See also
References
- ↑ Robinson (ed.), The Oxford Companion to Wine, Oxford University Press, 2015, ISBN 9780198705383.
- ↑ Hungarian Wine Marketing Agency, Tokaji Aszú.
- ↑ Gilby, Caroline MW, “Tokaji sweetness: What is Aszú and why is it special?”, Decanter.
- ↑ Puckette, Madeline, “Tokaji Aszú”, Wine Folly.
- ↑ European Commission, Tokaj PDO specifications; Commission Implementing Regulation (EU) 2025/1291.
- ↑ MacNeil, Karen, The Wine Bible, Workman Publishing, ISBN 9780761180838.
- ↑ Kovács, Ágnes, Terra Benedicta: Tokaj and Beyond, ISBN 9789632106625.
- ↑ European Commission, Commission Implementing Regulation (EU) 2025/1291.